Montezuma — bohemian waterfalls and Isla Tortuga at the tip of Nicoya

A town that chose not to grow up

Montezuma sits at the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, reachable only by ferry from Puntarenas and a 40-minute drive south from Paquera, or by a 25-minute Sansa flight to the Tambor airstrip. That relative isolation has kept it small and strange in the best possible way. The town is a single unpaved main street lined with tree-root benches, outdoor restaurants, and art galleries that appear to have been running since 1995. Travelers who expected this kind of place from Costa Rica and found Tamarindo too commercialized, or Santa Teresa too Instagram-manicured, often end up staying in Montezuma longer than planned.

The main draw is the waterfall system just outside town — three cascades connected by a trail that most visitors can reach in under 30 minutes. The top cascade drops into a deep pool, swimmable year-round though current strengthens after heavy rain. Beyond the waterfalls, Montezuma’s main asset is Isla Tortuga, reached by organized boat tours from the beach.

The Montezuma waterfalls

The trail to the falls begins at the south end of town, crosses a small river, and follows a path through secondary forest. The first waterfall (about 10 minutes from town) is small but has a clear pool. The main attraction is the second and third cascades, reached after a moderate scramble over rocks — water shoes are strongly recommended. The highest pool, at the third cascade, is the jumping point: a rope swing and a ledge from which swimmers leap 5 to 6 meters into the water below. This is genuinely fun and generally safe when water levels are normal, but exercise caution after heavy rain when the current in the pool strengthens noticeably.

Entrance to the falls area is free. There is no formal guided tour because the trail is well-marked and short. Local guides can be hired informally near the trail entrance for around USD 15 to 20 if you want commentary on the flora and fauna — there is actually a lot to notice in the forest between the falls.

Isla Tortuga: the day trip highlight

Isla Tortuga is a pair of uninhabited islands about 45 minutes by boat from Montezuma’s beach. The snorkeling around the island’s rocky points is the best available from any southern Nicoya base — visibility averages 8 to 12 meters in the dry season, with reef fish, sea urchins, and the occasional sea turtle visible.

The full-day boat tour from Santa Teresa (which passes Montezuma en route) is the standard package: snorkeling, beach time on the island’s white sand beach, and the return journey. This is one of the most photogenic experiences on the Pacific coast.

Santa Teresa: Tortuga Island full-day boat tour with snorkel — from $155

From Puntarenas to the north, the VIP day trip format includes a larger vessel, better onboard facilities, and a buffet lunch.

From Puntarenas: Tortuga Island VIP tour full-day — from $120

A more budget-conscious option is the snorkeling tour with BBQ lunch that runs from the broader Costa Rica coast.

Isla Tortuga snorkeling tour with BBQ lunch — from $135

One honest note: Isla Tortuga is privately managed and has a USD 15 to 20 landing fee charged by the boat operators in addition to tour prices. Confirm what is included before booking.

The beach and town

Montezuma’s town beach is rocky and not ideal for swimming — it has character but not calm water. Playa Las Manchas, 500 meters north along a coastal path, is wider and sandier. Playa Cocolito, 1 kilometer south, is a small pocket of calm water good for children. For the best swimming in the area, Sámara (100 km north) has the most reliably calm and safe waters on the Nicoya Peninsula. The main beach serves more as a backdrop than a swimming destination.

The town’s eating and drinking scene has a distinct bohemian register. Ylang Ylang Restaurant (technically in a lodge 15 minutes north by boat or 25 minutes on foot) is the best cooking in the area — open-air beachfront tables, good seafood and vegetarian options, USD 15 to 25 per person. In town, El Sano Banano is the reliable vegetarian/health food spot with good smoothies and a projector screening films nightly (a Montezuma tradition going back 25 years). Bakery Café is the breakfast stop — good coffee and homemade pastries at local prices.

Where to stay

Mid-range: Ylang Ylang Beach Resort offers the most comfortable lodging near town, with bungalows in a forest setting above the beach (USD 120 to 200 per night). El Jardín is a good mid-range option in town with comfortable rooms and a garden. Budget: Hostel Luna Llena is the central budget choice — dormitories at USD 15 to 20 and private rooms at USD 40 to 60. Camping is permitted on the beach north of town.

Getting there

The most common route is from San José to Puntarenas by bus (2 hours, USD 3), then the Naviera Tambor ferry to Paquera (1h20, USD 4 per foot passenger, USD 25 for a car), then a local bus or taxi south to Montezuma (40 min, USD 2 by bus or USD 15 by taxi). Our ferry routes guide explains the Puntarenas–Paquera crossing in detail, including current schedules and vehicle booking requirements. Total trip time: around 5 hours. Sansa and Aerobell fly from SJO to Tambor (25 min, around USD 80 to 110 one-way), saving 4 hours. A taxi from Tambor to Montezuma costs USD 20 to 25.

There is no shortage of tourist shuttles. Caribe Shuttle and Interbus operate door-to-door services from major hotels in San José and Jacó starting around USD 50 to 65 per person.

Frequently asked questions about Montezuma

Is Montezuma safe?

Yes, for typical travel risks. Petty theft occurs — do not leave valuables on the beach unattended. The waterfall trail has no significant safety issues in normal conditions, but the climbing sections between falls require care after rain. Swim in the waterfall pool only when the current is calm; local guides or signs will advise if conditions are poor.

How do Montezuma and Santa Teresa compare?

Montezuma is rawer, cheaper, and more backpacker-oriented. Santa Teresa is more developed, with better surf, more restaurants, and a younger, wealthier demographic. Both are on the southern Nicoya Peninsula and reachable from the same ferry — some travelers combine them with a taxi between the two towns (about 45 minutes on an unpaved road). If you want bohemian and cheap, Montezuma. If you want surf and scene, Santa Teresa.

Can I combine Montezuma with Cabo Blanco Reserve?

Yes. The Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve — Costa Rica’s first protected area — is 11 kilometers south of Montezuma. It’s accessible by taxi (USD 15 each way) or on foot (a 2-hour hike along the coast). The reserve has a good trail system through dry forest, white-sand beaches accessible only on foot, and howler monkey populations. Open Thursday to Sunday.

Is the road between Montezuma and Santa Teresa drivable?

Yes, but it’s unpaved and takes 45 to 60 minutes. In the dry season, a standard car handles it. In the wet season (May through November), a 4WD is recommended — some sections flood and become muddy. Taxis connect the two towns for USD 20 to 30.

How to fit Montezuma into your itinerary

Two nights is the standard allocation: Day 1 in the waterfalls and around town, Day 2 on the Isla Tortuga boat trip. From Santa Teresa, Montezuma is a logical 45-minute taxi connection, making a combined Nicoya Peninsula trip very natural. The ferry from Puntarenas also connects directly with Jacó by road (45 minutes north of Puntarenas), so a circuit of Jacó–Montezuma–Santa Teresa by public transport is feasible for backpackers.